Climbing at the 2024 Paris Olympics: How it Works, Team USA Stars, and More
When Did Climbing Become an Olympic Sport?
Climbing made its Olympic debut at the Tokyo 2021 Games. The sport first caught the Olympic committee’s eye during the Buenos Aires Youth Olympic Games in 2018. Along with skateboarding and surfing, climbing was added to appeal to younger audiences and spotlight urban sports. It will continue to be part of the program in the Los Angeles 2028 Summer Olympics.
How Does Olympic Climbing Work?
Olympic sport climbing consists of three disciplines: bouldering, speed, and lead.
- Bouldering: Climbers scale a 4.5-meter wall (nearly 15 feet) without ropes, aiming to reach the top in the fewest attempts within a limited time.
- Lead: Climbers attempt to ascend as high as possible on a 15-meter wall (nearly 50 feet) within six minutes.
- Speed: Competitors race head-to-head up a 15-meter wall with a five-degree incline. Top men can complete the climb in under six seconds, while the fastest women often break seven seconds.
New Format for Paris 2024
Unlike the Tokyo 2021 Games, where all three disciplines were combined, Paris 2024 separates speed climbing into its own event, while bouldering and lead remain combined. This change allows athletes to specialize.
The scoring system has also been revamped. In Tokyo, scores from each discipline were multiplied for a final score. Now, with speed climbing as a separate event, bouldering and lead climbing have a new point system. Climbers can earn a maximum of 200 points:
- Bouldering: Points are awarded for advancing through “zones” on the wall (5 points for the low zone, 10 points for the high zone) and reaching the top hold (25 points). Points are deducted for failed attempts, with a perfect round worth 100 points.
- Lead: Climbers score points by reaching and holding onto up to 40 holds, with each hold increasing their score. Partial points (0.1) are awarded for attempts at holds.
Team USA Stars to Watch
- Sam Watson: At 18, he holds the men’s speed world record with a time of 4.79 seconds. He was ranked eighth globally in 2023 and won gold at the Pan American Games.
- Natalia Grossman: Ranked No. 1 in women’s boulder and fifth in the combined boulder & lead category last year. She also took gold in boulder & lead at the Pan American Games.
- Brooke Raboutou: Fifth-place finisher in Tokyo, daughter of climbing champions Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou and Didier Raboutou. She speaks fluent French.
Top International Climbers at Paris 2024
- Janja Garnbret (Slovenia): The reigning women’s gold medalist will compete in lead/bouldering.
- Aleksandra Miroslav (Poland): A top contender in women’s speed.
- Ai Mori (Japan): A strong competitor in women’s boulder/lead.
- Rahmad Adi Mulyono and Veddriq Leonardo (Indonesia): Top challengers in men’s speed.
- Jakob Shubert (Australia): A four-time world champion and podium contender in men’s lead/bouldering.
Final Thoughts
Climbing’s dynamic and challenging nature promises to make it a highlight of the Paris 2024 Olympics. With its new format and scoring system, this event will surely captivate audiences worldwide. Keep an eye on Team USA’s rising stars and the top international competitors as they reach new heights in this thrilling sport.